SUNDAY, AUGUST 17

SUNDAY, AUGUST 17:

     Well, as long as we were here, and got as close as we did yesterday afternoon to the Lewis & Clark site, and felt in no hurry to get to Portland, we decided to unhitch the truck and drive it to the Interpretive Center, intending only to look out over whatever viewpoints were there to see where the mighty Columbia River empties into the Pacific.  Didn’t really plan to stay long inside the actual Visitors Center itself, if we even went into it. 

     However, the entire point was totally socked in by fog.  Dense, white fog.  So you couldn’t see a thing.  Could hear a plaintive fog horn from a ship out in the near distance, but no way of telling where the vessel was.  Fogs like this one are just one element which has contributed to the reputation this area has as the “Graveyard of the Pacific.”  Massive amounts of sand and gravel carried down by the Columbia get deposited at the mouth, forming large sand bars.  And, with the large shifting tides, the sand bars get shifted around as well.  So, for incoming ships especially, it was very hazardous.  Much less so in recent years, of course with modern navigation equipment; plus, they’ve stabilized the sand bars a lot with building  a couple of eddys.

     Since we couldn’t see anything outside, we ventured inside the Visitors Center, just to get an idea of what was there.
                                                                     

                                                   

Paid the small fee, and two hours later we emerged.  Was a really, really excellent “museum,” although not strictly a museum – lots of interactive exhibits, etc.  The entire space laid out Lewis& Clark’s journey in a chronological sequence as they first went up the Missouri, then spending their 1^st winter at the Mandan village in North Dakota, where they added French Canadian trapper Charbonneau and his Native wife Sakagewa to their expedition, additions they knew were crucial to the expedition’s success in communicating with the various Native peoples they’d encounter on their journey west.  Then their continuing journey west the next spring and summer into territory which North American Natives knew quite well, but where virtually no European had ever set foot . . . hopeful that they’d find a quick way to the headwaters  of the Columbia, and smooth sailing all the way down to the Pacific.  Not so much.  Instead, they encountered huge waterfalls (Great Falls MT), necessitating an almost month-long portage of absolutely everything the 35 men (plus Sakagewa and her baby) were carrying in their boats, and then of course the enormous Rockies, of which they had little idea. 

     Even when they knew they were approaching the Pacific (could tell by such things as the sudden appearance of European trade goods in the Indian settlements, signifying contact with European trading ships) and became buoyed by hope, they still had some miserable times ahead . . . one where they spent 6 days in a place Clark dubbed “Dismal Niche” only a few miles from where we stood today on the north shore of the Columbia, trapped by a vicious and unrelenting rain storm which constantly soaked them and their bedding.  Easy to see why, when the storm let up a little and they made their getaway, Clark said his un-fond farewell to “this Dismal Niche.”

     You could just sense their joy when they finally saw the Pacific Ocean before their eyes, 1 ½ years after they’d set out.  The exhibits, pictures, paintings, and documents were all perfectly selected and lent to your understanding and empathy and respectful awe of this historic expedition.  Especially amazing were the absolutely meticulous notes that Clark, especially, kept every day - of the flora, fauna, longitude & latitude, mileage, dress and habits of the Natives, some of their language, etc. etc.  He even included drawings of birds, Indian costumes, etc.  There were life-size replicas of the notebooks he (and other men) kept – very small, their handwriting tiny but legible.  And so they fulfilled both aspects of the mission that President Jefferson charged them with (the expedition was actually a military deployment), - first, to find the most direct route to the Pacific Ocean, and second, to document everything they encountered on their way.  They followed their orders to a T, always signing their letters and messages back to Jefferson, “Your obedient servant, . . .”  Quite, quite amazing and inspiring.  It’s all especially interesting and relevant to us as, every time we bike along the KATY along the Missouri, we encounter campsites where the expedition stopped their first couple of  nights out.  So it’s really something to see it all tied together.

     When we emerged from the Visitors Center at noon, we expected to see the fog lifted.  Not so – only slightly.  Enough at least to make out the lighthouse across the inlet.  So no viewing of the mighty Columbia pouring into the Pacific today.

                                                                             

        Drove back to the RV park to hitch back up and get ready to leave.  Was a nicely run little park.  So glad we found it.

     So on to Portland.  Drove off of the peninsula, and across the bridge to Astoria.  A gorgeous view of the Columbia now – wider than the Mississippi, and a beautiful blue.  It spread out on both sides of us as far as we could see – well, as far as I  could see . . . Bill was too busy guiding the truck & RV right down the center of the lane to take in the gorgeous view. 

     Then, across the bridge in the town of Astoria, more narrow streets, lots of traffic and tourists, trying to find highway signs which will get us to Portland, a near miss with almost starting to go up a 35 degree angle hill which we mistakenly thought was leading us to the highway when, Thank God, we saw a sign, “No Trucks or Trailers.”  We never would have made it, and how would we ever have gotten back down (other than gravity!)??  Ho hum - just another adventure.  Astoria looks like a delightful scenic town –we’d like to come back and re-visit.  Maybe a day trip from Portland??

     Finally on the right road to Portland.  Through pretty woods and countryside, with occasional glimpses of the Columbia.  Lots of curves and grades, slowing us down to an average of 40 or 45 mph, and still having to use the brakes some, despite a lot of down-shifting.  At one point, both of us definitely smelled the brakes.  Geesh!!!   After a couple of hours, crossed back into Washington on another bridge, with more great views of the Columbia, and then down I-5.  Now’s the easy part. 

     Found the RV park pretty easily, and very easy to set up – all level concrete pads.  Packed in like sardines, but a pull through site, so no big deal.  No scenery at all here – a typical urban park, but very clean.  Essentially just a place to sleep.

     Got cleaned up, called Lynn.  She’ll come around 6:00 to pick us up to take her to her place for dinner.  John, her boyfriend, had another commitment tonight, so won’t join us. 

     And there she was!  Soooo glad to see her – it’s been 2 years!!  She looked better than ever – as I told Bill, she’s definitely his prettiest sister-in-law!

     Drove us to her condo.  Was so nice and relaxing to be chauffeured in a nice, clean, small, quiet car without having to look for directions!  Her condo is wonderful – very spacious and livable, and she has it decorated with absolute charm & taste.  Made us a delicious dinner of veggie pasta, fresh baked herb bread, and a yummy salad.   And for dessert, a choice of 3 kinds of ice cream, including a truly Northwest coast iconic flavor . . . Green Tea.  Hmmmm . . . . don’t recall seeing that at Schnucks in St .Louis.  Was actually very good – a mild taste.

        A wonderful end to a day which began with a fabulous history lesson.  A bit stressful in between – but, once again, to quote the Bard:  “All’s well that ends well.”